Explore Whitfield & beyond
Walks, drives and days out from the Elks Head
Your base in the North Pennines
Whitfield sits in the West Allen valley, deep in the North Pennines, one of England's most unspoilt landscapes. Within half an hour you can be walking Hadrian's Wall, exploring a Roman fort, driving one of Britain's great roads or browsing a historic market town.
Here's our pick of the best, with approximate drive times from the Elks Head. After a day out, there's a warm fire, a proper pint and a hearty meal waiting for you here.
For hardened walkers only
15 miles · 893 m summit · one free drink
Think you've got what it takes? Conquer Cross Fell, the roof of the Pennines and the highest mountain in England outside the Lake District, on the classic 15-mile (24 km) circuit from Garrigill, then come back to the Elks Head and your first drink is on us.
Drive 20 minutes (13 miles) to the village of Garrigill, just beyond Alston, and park in the village. From there, follow the Pennine Way up the old Corpse Road track, climbing steadily across wild, open moorland for about seven miles.
On the way you'll pass Greg's Hut, the highest bothy in England at 718 m, before the final push to the summit plateau of Cross Fell at 893 m (2,930 ft). On a clear day the views stretch across the Eden Valley to the Lake District fells and over the Solway to Scotland. Return to Garrigill by the same route, or via the old mine workings on the fell's eastern flank.
Allow 6 to 8 hours, with around 600 m (almost 2,000 ft) of climbing. Expect notorious bogs near the top, a bleak and confusing summit in mist, and some of the wildest weather in England.
One free drink per walker who completes the challenge. You must be 18 or over for alcohol. Photos must be from the same day. Staff decision is final.
This is a serious mountain walk. Carry the OS Explorer OL31 map and a compass (and know how to use them), waterproofs, warm layers, hat and gloves, plenty of food and water, and a head torch. Check the mountain forecast, start early, turn back if the weather closes in, and tell someone your route and expected finish time. In an emergency on the hills, call 999 and ask for the Police, then Mountain Rescue.
Conquered it? Tag us on Facebook (opens in a new tab) and we'll add you to our Challenge Wall of Fame.
Walking & hiking
Pull your boots on at the Elks Head and you're straight into wooded river valleys, open moorland and quiet country lanes. Muddy boots and dogs are always welcome in the bar when you get back.
Right on our doorstep
Public footpaths lead out of Whitfield along the River West Allen, through woodland, riverside meadows and farmland on the Whitfield Estate. It's a lovely, gentle way to stretch your legs before breakfast or build an appetite before dinner.
Keep an eye out for birds along the river and wildlife in the woods, and enjoy the old stone bridges and weirs that dot the valley.
Tip: Short and easy, great for dog walks and families.
Passes close to Whitfield
A 36-mile (58 km) circular route linking Allendale Town, Nenthead, Alston and Ninebanks, following in the footsteps of Isaac Holden, a legendary 19th-century tea seller who walked these hills with his wares.
Walk it all over three or four days, or pick a section for a day out. The stretch between Ninebanks and Allendale Town climbs out of the West Allen valley and runs through Monk Wood on the Whitfield Estate, with wonderful views across the dale.
Tip: Split it into sections and make the Elks Head your base.
About 6 miles · 15 minutes' drive
Cared for by the National Trust, this is one of Northumberland's most magical places to walk. The River Allen has carved a deep, dramatic gorge through the largest area of ancient semi-natural woodland in the county.
Choose an easy three-mile riverside loop, or a longer circular walk up through the trees to the ruins of Staward Peel, a medieval pele tower perched above the gorge. Along the way you'll find a reconstructed Victorian summerhouse with breathtaking views and an ornamental pond.
Tip: Stunning in autumn colour. Paths can be steep and muddy after rain.
National Trust: Allen Banks & Staward Gorge (opens in a new tab)
Moorland above the village
For something wilder, head up onto the open moors to Whitfield Lough, a remote hilltop lake surrounded by heather and big North Pennine skies. You'll often have it entirely to yourself, with curlews and skylarks for company in spring and summer.
It's a proper upland walk, so take a map, good boots and a waterproof, and check the forecast before you set off.
Tip: Best on a clear day for the views.
World Heritage Site
Built on the orders of Emperor Hadrian from AD 122, the Wall ran 73 miles from coast to coast and marked the northern edge of the Roman Empire. Its most spectacular stretch, the forts and crags of the central section, is only 20 minutes' drive from the Elks Head.
About 11 miles · 20 minutes' drive
Britain's most complete Roman fort sits high on the Whin Sill escarpment, with sweeping views north over the wild Northumberland landscape. Wander through the barracks, granaries, the commander's house and the famous communal toilets.
From the fort, walk west along the Wall itself, one of the finest stretches of the whole route, over Cuddy's Crags and Hotbank Crags towards Steel Rigg. You'll pass Sycamore Gap, once home to the famous tree, which was felled in 2023. Its stump remains and is protected, so please treat it with respect.
Tip: The walk from Housesteads to Steel Rigg is about 3½ miles each way, with some steep climbs. Wear good boots.
About 10 miles · 20 minutes' drive
One of Europe's most important Roman sites, Vindolanda was a fort and busy frontier town even before the Wall was built. You can see the remains of the headquarters building, barracks, a tavern and a bath house, and in summer watch archaeologists making new discoveries on live digs.
The museum is home to the Vindolanda writing tablets, voted Britain's top treasure. These postcard-sized letters include shopping lists, requests for more beer and a Roman lady's birthday party invitation, and they bring everyday life on the frontier vividly to life.
Tip: Allow at least half a day. There's a café on site.
About 12 miles · 25 minutes' drive
Beside the site of Carvoran Roman fort, the Roman Army Museum brings the life of a Roman soldier to life with real artefacts from Vindolanda, life-size replicas and immersive galleries. It's brilliant for families.
Next door, Walltown Crags has one of the highest standing sections of the Wall, rising and dipping along a dramatic ridge. There's a lovely short walk from Walltown Country Park.
Tip: A joint ticket with Vindolanda saves money if you're visiting both.
About 10 miles · 20 minutes' drive
The Sill is the National Landscape Discovery Centre for Northumberland National Park, with a free exhibition about the landscape, a café, a shop and a grass-covered roof you can walk up for the views.
It's the perfect starting point for walks along the Wall to Steel Rigg, Crag Lough and Sycamore Gap, and a handy place to pick up maps and local advice.
On the road
Some of the most breathtaking roads in England start within a few miles of Whitfield. Whether you're in the car or on a motorbike, these routes are worth the trip for the views alone. Bikers, don't forget you get 10% off your bill when you ride in.
Starts in Whitfield · summit about 35 minutes' drive
The A686 runs right through Whitfield and was named by the AA as one of its Ten Great Drives. Head south-west through Alston and the road climbs to over 1,900 feet at Hartside summit in a series of sweeping bends.
On a clear day the view across the Eden Valley to the Lake District fells is unforgettable. It's a legendary route with motorcyclists, and a thrilling drive in any vehicle.
Tip: The pass can be closed or dangerous in snow and ice, so check conditions in winter.
About 12 miles · 25 minutes' drive
Follow the East Allen valley south to Allenheads, one of the highest villages in England and once the heart of a huge lead-mining industry. At the Heritage Centre you can see a magnificent hydraulic engine built by the great Victorian engineer William Armstrong.
Carry on over the high moorland road into Weardale for some of the most dramatic, empty scenery in the North Pennines.
About 16 miles · 30 minutes' drive
At the top of Weardale, Killhope brings a 19th-century lead mine back to life. Its star attraction is a mighty 10-metre waterwheel built by William Armstrong's Tyneside company and restored to working order.
Explore the washing floors and the miners' lodging shop, and see how whole families lived and worked in this tough, beautiful landscape.
Tip: Check opening times before you travel, as it's usually seasonal.
About 38 miles · 1 hour 15 minutes' drive
A spectacular day out: Kielder is home to northern Europe's largest man-made lake and England's largest forest, with lakeside walks, cycling trails, boat trips and wildlife including red squirrels and ospreys.
It's also part of Northumberland International Dark Sky Park, one of the best places in Europe for stargazing, and home to the famous Kielder Observatory.
Explore
Historic market towns, quirky museums and a heritage railway, all close enough for a morning or afternoon out, with plenty of time to be back for dinner.
About 4 miles · 10 minutes' drive
Our nearest town is a charming stone-built village around a wide market square, with independent shops, cafés and pubs. It's famous for its Tar Bar'l festival on New Year's Eve, when guisers carry blazing tar barrels on their heads through the streets to light a huge bonfire at midnight.
Don't miss the Museum of Classic Sci-Fi in the cellar of a Georgian townhouse. You'll spot it by the TARDIS and Robby the Robot outside, and inside it's packed with over 300 props, costumes and artworks from Doctor Who, Star Trek and more.
About 9 miles · 20 minutes' drive
At around 1,000 feet above sea level, Alston shares the title of England's highest market town. Its steep cobbled Front Street is lined with old stone buildings, independent shops and cafés.
From Alston station, the South Tynedale Railway runs heritage narrow-gauge trains along the old branch line through the beautiful South Tyne valley into Northumberland. It's a treat for all ages.
Tip: Check the railway's timetable, as trains run on selected days.
About 14 miles · 25 minutes' drive
The historic market town of Hexham is dominated by its beautiful Abbey, first founded by St Wilfrid in AD 674. Its Saxon crypt, built from stone taken from the Roman town at Corbridge, has survived almost unchanged for 1,300 years.
Across the market place stands the Old Gaol, dating from the 1330s and one of the oldest purpose-built prisons in England. Add a regular market, independent shops, a riverside park and plenty of places to eat, and it's a perfect half-day out.
And there's more
A friendly little town just south of the Wall, about 20 minutes away, with shops, cafés and easy access to Walltown and Cawfields.
English Heritage's Roman supply town beside the Tyne, about 30 minutes away. Pair it with Corbridge's lovely village shops.
Quiet lanes and big climbs. The roads around the Allen valleys are a favourite with road cyclists.
Our skies are wonderfully dark. On a clear night, step outside after dinner and look up.
Drive times are approximate and depend on the weather and the time of year. Opening times change with the seasons, so please check with each attraction before you travel.
Local events
Village shows, charity walks, fetes, music nights, craft fairs, sports days: if something's happening in Whitfield, the Allen valleys or nearby, tell us about it. We're happy to share community events here and on our Facebook page, and we can host events at the Elks Head too.
Send us the what, when and where, plus a contact and a photo or poster if you have one.
Make a weekend of it
With 10 comfortable bedrooms, a hearty breakfast and ample free parking, the Elks Head is the perfect base for exploring Hadrian's Wall and the North Pennines.
